Written By: Cove Johnson Rabidoux
In the Richmond District of San Francisco, where the thermometer hovers around 50°F, residents wrap themselves in puffy jackets, their breath misting in the cool air, and fog clings to the streets like parsley to flaky naan, there's no cozier retreat than Keeva Indian Kitchen. Women-owned, family-operated, and located in the heart of the Inner Richmond, Keeva teems with a warmth that isn’t limited to its Aloo Gobi or fragrant curries. The staff’s genuine smiles as they rush over to you when you enter, the strong aroma of spice and incense that hits you from the moment you open the door, and the bright orange walls that make you feel as though you have stepped into a sunlight room at dusk are all as enveloping as the first bite of a perfectly spiced samosa.
The menu at Keeva is a love letter to Indian cuisine, signed in spices and sealed with an aromatic kiss of cumin and cardamom. Here, you won’t find the açai bowls or artisanal kale salads that characterize the city, just classic family-style dishes. So when you take that first bite of aloo matar or garlic naan, you can't help but sigh in delight and melt into the colorful, embroidered cushions like an ice cream cone left too long in the sun. From the eggplant salan to the Aloo Gobi, every bite bursts with flavors brighter than the twinkling fairy lights that adorn the restaurant’s storefront.
The Aloo Gobi, with its tender cauliflower florets bathed in a rich, fragrant blend of spices, is a testament to the detail Keeva puts into its flavors and heat. The restaurant even has its own spectrum to categorize spice-level, ranging from mild to “glistening” to “sweating.” But to help you through the heat is the house-made mango lassi. Thick, velvety, and indulgent, this drink is a dessert in disguise, so silky smooth that it rivals the finest ice cream.
But while the chili powder curries and the Palak Chaat topped with juicy pomegranate seeds and velvet-like orchid petal garnishes do make dinner at Keeva satisfying, it is the warmth of the people that will cause a smile to dance on your spicy lips. Rita, who leads the exceptional staff, is the heart and soul of the restaurant, greeting guests with an affection that is 100° hotter than the foggy chill outside. She notices if you accidentally ordered a dairy-based dish after asking for a vegan appetizer, asks if you have allergies, and glides across the dining room to fill up your water when she sees your brow start to glisten. It’s through Rita’s spirit—the way she exclaims that it’s been a while since she’s seen someone and holds the door open for guests laden with takeout—that makes Keeva more than just a restaurant, it's a community hub.
Large families settle into tables knowing what they want to order before they even sit down, chatting and laughing as they eagerly await their favorite dishes. Young couples treat each dish like a piece of art from the SF MoMA, taking 10 minutes to photograph the vibrant food with every filter they can think of before diving into their first bite. Keeva bursts with life, laughter, incense, Indian Pop music, and butter. At Keeva no one bats an eye if you butcher the names of the dishes; instead, they welcome you with open arms, eager to share their delicious dishes.
Yet, Keeva is more than its culinary treasures; it's the meticulous attention to detail evident in every aspect—the golden utensils gleaming under soft lighting, the embroidered pillows, and the shelves adorned with an array of vibrant red spices. It's about the unexpected conversations with Rita, who might share a joke about her husband–the chef–or recommend a lesser-known dish with infectious enthusiasm. It's about the way the kitchen staff peeks out to see the delighted look on your face or visit a regular customer’s table.
So, even though the Inner Richmond with its old storefronts and gray sheet for a sky isn’t the first place your mind goes to when thinking of upscale restaurants, it is precisely this that makes it the perfect backdrop for Keeva. We live in a city where food is measured by its price tags and Michelin stars, but the Inner Richmond is a sanctuary, an oasis of shared meals and warm, comforting food. After all, this entire community revolves around the concept of family, from the spacious family homes with basketball hoops over the garage to parents strolling behind their kids as they ride their bikes down the street. Keeva serves as a reminder of what genuine cooking is in a city filled with trendy, deconstructed dishes and $25 super salads catering to the influx of techies. It is cooking that doesn't rely on precision tweezers or expensive foamers, but rather on the rich aroma of spices wafting through the air and the sound of vegetables being chopped against well-worn wooden boards. At Keeva, the simple acts of spooning Palak Chaat onto your plate or sharing a bowl of steaming white rice linger with you long after you've stepped out onto the misty sidewalk, which now seems just a bit brighter.
Keeva Indian Kitchen; 908 Clement St, San Francisco, CA 94118; (415) 742-4010.
Open Tuesday–Sunday 11:30 am–2 pm & 5:00 pm–9:00 pm. Dine in. Street Parking. $20-30
Recommended Dishes: Garlic Naan, Palak Chaat, Aloo Gobi, Tawa Roti
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